Why No One Got Postcards

I'm home, and strange I'm finding it, I assure you. It is cold. There are no tuk tuks. Christmas is everywhere. I just wanted to quickly address the postcard issue. I did buy them. Ten in fact from a child for which I will be forever regretful about. I didn't know at the time that it's best not to buy from children as it encourages them to stay on the street and not try to go to school. But I did buy them. However, in Cambodia there is really no central mail system. There is one post office. It was not close to me. There are no cute little mailboxes to drop cards in and everyone told me that stamps were really expensive. So, the only missives you all received or will receive from the Bod is this blog. Videos will be uploaded soon, along with the itineraries since I know you all want a recap. Well, I do.

Final Boarding

Boarding for Indy.

Crappy Flight

So my long flight was pretty terrible.  I was seated with a mom and her four year old kid who cried a lot and when she cried it was accompanied by wailing screams.  In front of us was a family of four in three seats.  That means there was an infant who was sitting on laps during the whole flight.  When my rowmate started crying, the infant would join in.  

Yeah.  It was pretty awful.  Also, my knees HATE flying.  I have to pop ibuprofen in a steady stream to get through it.  It didn't used to be this way so it must be the running.  

I am looking foward to running once I get home though.  I think my legs hurt from not running as much as from the flights.  

So, I'm here in the Dallas Fort Worth airport now.  It is so American.  This is the first airport I've been in where there are TVs blaring at you while you wait.  I know that sounds really pretentious, but sheesh.  Some people want to sleep.  

Crankily yours,

Suzanne and Button Cat

Hanging out in Dallas

Two Sides of the Same Coin

Funny Misconception

So yesterday a mystery in my mind was solved.  When I first arrived in Phnom Penh, RM and Sok pointed out the National Monument to me.  It was beautiful and golden.  Over the next few days, I saw another monument exactly the same but a different color.  This one was brown.  In my mind, they were on two ends of the same long mall or park.  I kept trying to photograph them both togehter (you know...one big and one little) but I could never get an angle where I could see both.  In the day, I saw the brown one.  At night I saw the gold one.  You must remember, that tuk tukking does not allow for a lot of geographic understanding.  

If you've already solved the mystery, well, bully for you.  

There is only ONE National Monument.  It is gold at night and brown during the day.  I discovered this on my last evening here when I went into Parteatime and the monument was brown and I came out of Parteatime and the monument was gold.  

And all of a sudden, the city of Phnom Penh made geographic sense.  

I Love the Korean Airport

Miss Annoying

I'm at the Korean airport waiting at my gate.  I have to go through security at each step of the way because they are all international connections.  This is not a quick change so I'm fine.  The guy sitting next to me right now just came out of the smoking lounge (they have those here) and he stinks to high heaven.

My first flight was pretty good.  I had a window seat but when I got there the aisle guy was sitting in it.  I went ahead and took the aisle thinking it'd be good if I needed to get up, which it would have been, but I slept on the plane (which is a small miracle) so I never had to get up.  So happy I got a couple of hours of sleep.  It made the flight shorter and was restful.  

The girl sitting between me and the guy who stole my seat, (his girlfriend) was one of the more annoying people I've ever sat next to on a plane.  She looked just like Kira from The Dark Crystal (except with black hair) and she spent the whole flight nudging me, bumping me, poking me, prodding me, and tapping me (I know...sounds like "I Can Hear the Bells" from Hairspray.  I wasn't hearing bells though...let me tell you).  She planned her attack mostly through the armrest.  Armrests on airplanes are really not armrests.  They are deliniations.  You stay on your side.  I'll stay on my side.  This Kira look-a-like thought that both her armrests were hers alone and thought that the three inches hovering on each side of the armrest were also hers.  Yes.  She can have the three inches on her side but my three inches are MINE, dammit.

So, at the end of the flight when everybody stands up and gathers their belongings (oh god...the smoking guy next to me just pulled out an ENORMOUS box of Camels that he just bought from duty-free...he's going to die from lung cancer) she pulled the best one yet.  People are already pushy and shovey during this part of the flight, but, until they open those doors, there is really no where to go.  I was standing in my seat area with one foot in the aisle, just about ready to lean on the back of the seat in front of me (the seat that had been in front of me the whole flight) when Kira Girl shoves me over (bodily) and drapes her whole self over the back of that seat!  The aisle seat!  In my territory!  She had her own middle seat back that she could drape over.  Come on.  I was not having that.  I tapped her on the shoulder and said, "Nope.  That's mine."  She moved over about six inches and we draped together in anti-companionship for the three minutes it took to get people moving.  

Next stop:  Dallas.

The Flight Attendants

This is not my picture...I stole it from the internet (bad librarian) but I really wanted you to see their uniforms, ties, and hair pieces.  They are all young and beautiful.

Speaking of beautiful, I was stopped in the park today by two men who wanted to know if I did my hair in a salon.  I was floored.  My hair has been in a constant side braid for two weeks now because I haven't had a hair dryer.  They were very interested in my hair and even took their picture with me and Button Cat.  Don't worry.  I didn't give them any contact information.  It was just a funny interaction.  

Some thoughts as I wait for my first flight...

One of the impressions from Cambodia that is staying with me is the friendliness of the people.  I almost always felt out of my comfort zone while here, but I almost never felt truly unsafe.  I was somewhat lost a few times and people were always happy to help me find my way.  So many strangers smiled at me while on the street.  Kids played with me.  I made at least two meaningful library contacts.  My tuk tuk drivers were always very attentive and buying things at the various markets was always a fun, diverting experience.  Button Cat was appreciated and loved on by many Cambodians.  

They are even generous with their saddest moments.  I'm so glad I had a guide at Tuol Sleng.  I don't think I'll ever forget her comments about how sad life was under the Khmer Rouge and indeed, how her life is still permanently changed because of those years.  She was so personal and patient with my questions.  The Killing Fields is also a place that gives to the visitor.  They have planned this space with walking paths and so many benches along with a first rate audio tour so you can get plenty of information, have time to listen to the information, and do so in relative comfort.  

Of course, many many people saw me and offered me a service because I was obviously on vacation and had money to spend, but I was more than happy to help the economy with my vacation money, and many times, the services offered (tuk tuk, item to buy, restaurant) were things that I was interested in anyway.  People here are just doing their jobs like anywhere else. 

There are, of course, many things that were challenging while I was here.  

There is trash everywhere, but there is also an army of people constantly cleaning it up.  Their signature delta shaped brooms made ouf of straw, sticks, or soft grass were always moving over the tiled sidewalks, brandished by shop keepers, children, property owners, and just people who wanted their little space a little cleaner.  But there's no getting away from the fact that there is a lot of trash that doesn't really get taken care of in a complete manner.

Water.  I never tried drinking the tap water.  I was strongly advised many times not to do this.  I did brush my teeth in it and had tea from it (boiled is okay) but I was always having to make sure that I had water around.  Everytime we took a bus, it was provided.  On all the planes it's been provided.  We even had a tuk tuk driver who gave us water.  But all that bottled water comes at a cost made of up plastic bottles and no flouride in the water supply.  I will say this.  It was cheap.  You could get a 2 litre of water for something like 75 cents.  In Italy Mama Mia and I spend 1.5 euro for the same size and that is very expensive.  

Air.  There is dust.  There is a constant fish-ish smell.  There is exhaust from the tuk tuks, motos, and of course cars.  I did fine when I wore my mast, but I've had a runny nose for days and am starting to develop a cough.  Pretty sure it's from the air.  

Those were the main things.  Of course, the language barrier was a lot more difficult to handle than in Italy.  Not as many people speak English, but I was never in a situation where I couldn't find a solution. The children.  God.  What to say.  Cambodia is a young country.  Remember, a fourth of their population died during the reign of the Khmer Rouge.  Many people are having kids (I saw lots of pregnant women) and many kids sell trinkets on the street.  Tonight when Sok and I were stopped at a stoplight, a small boy stood right by me, put his little hands on my arm rest and just said please over and over again. In Sihanhoukville, I read a sign that said not to buy from children or give anything to children.  It encourages them to stay on the street and not go to school.  What could I do for this little kid?  Nothing.  I looked at him and I said, "try to go to school.  Try to get to school."  I don't even know if he understood me.  

I need to learn more about Buddhism.  I saw it all around me constantly and I know very little about it.  I'm (of course) going to read more about the Khmer Rouge.  I also am hoping to organize a book drive for kids books that I will send to my new librarian friend here.

Missing Thanksgiving was hard, but was made easier by contact from my family.  I am very glad I visited Ohio the weekend before I came to Cambodia.  Christmas will be in full swing when I get home and I know that the craziness of the holidays (particularly all that gift giving) will stike me differently this year than in the past.  Don't get me wrong.  I bought so much here that I could start my own store at home, but Christmas this year for me will be more about the people.  And making things.  I have so many things to create once I get home.  

A few more quick things.  

There are plastic chairs all over this country.  You know the ones.  They are one single piece, are usually white but you can get them in any color, stack easily, and are usually used in the yard.   These are EVERYWHERE here.  Many roadside restaurants have them for their customers.  Customers in places like these are very often friends and family of the owner.  

On my tuk tuk ride to the airport today I saw a sign for International Book Center.  I need to find out more about this organization and what they do.  

On my first flight I have a window.  I love having a window.

Talk to you all in Seoul!

Christmas at Parteatime in Cambodia

Beautiful Walk

Me on a moto...

Having a Partea

After my massage, I decided to head down towards dinner, which is conveniently located by Wat Botum Park, a place I wanted to explore anyway.

How did I get here? Well, not only can you hire a tuk tuk quite easily here...you can also hop on the back of a moto. So I did. It was faster and cheaper than a tuk tuk. And thrilling.

Got to the park and had SUCH a pleasant walk. Took pics of the Independence Monument, the Cambodian Vietnam Monument, and found the Phnom Penh Children's Park that I had read about but had yet to run across, despite being right here the other day. I saw a kid flying a kite with his dad. Very cute.

Also saw Wat Botum. I didn't go into any of the buildings... I just walked around, but it was cool. There were loads of young monks and lots of stupas and statues to look at.

I'm currently having Chocolate Milk Tea (heavenly) at a place called Parteatime. I always get treated like a duchess in the restaurants here. It will be hard to come home to normal life. I could do massages and chocolate milk tea everyday and not complain.

Okay, I'm pretty sure my next post will be from the airport.

Button Cat was with me this afternoon and was also highly satisfied.

I've Had My Massage

There are massage places all over town including about three doors down from RM's apartment.  Eight dollars got me an hour long Swedish massage...back, legs, front of legs, arms, neck, and head!  I feel quite flight ready now that I'm too relaxed to stand.  Eight bucks guys.  Eight bucks.  

I'm taking a Tuk Tuk to the center of town now.  I'm meeting RM at 6 at a place called Java for my last dinner here.  It's been such an overwhelming, empowering experience.  

The Official Booty Pic

Russian Market

Russian Market

For those of you wishing to shop in Cambodia, do yourself a favor and come to the Russian Market first.  The prices are the best, the atmosphere is festive, the crowds are not too crazy and (of course) everyone wants to give you a special price.  I have finished my shopping and am heading home to pack it all up.  That will be a feat, but I've just discovered that I can check two bags so that will help.  Oh.  And I bought a hammock.  

This afternoon I'm going to take a tuk tuk back to the National Monument to get some good pics and get a massage.  Dinner with RM will follow and then it's off to America!  

Rooftop Adventures

Last night RM took me to the Eclipse Rooftop Bar to meet up with his friend Antoine and to see the sunset.  I wore my new blue dress and mascara which I don't think I've worn the entire trip.  It was quite beautiful to see the city spread out below us.  I loved seeing the Tonle Sap river, the Olympic Stadium, all the lights and picking out places I knew...Wat Phnom, the Royal Palace...I also liked seeing the mountains that were far, far away.  

After Eclipse we tried (in vain) to go to Romdeng, an NGO run restaurant that is apparently closed on Sunday.  We went to their sister establishment instead - Friends The Restaurant.  I was looking foward to having a bite of a tarantula at Romdeng, but they weren't on the menu at Friends...instead, we had red fire ants on some beef.  It was quite yummy.  The whole meal was quite yummy.  We had the closest thing I've had to fried mozzerella with maranara sauce, the fire ants dish, a chicken dish, something I'm forgetting, creamy drinks (I had a coconut smoothy thing with a fancy name that I forget) and then we had three desserts.  Three!  Chili ice cream with carmel, chocolate cheese cake with mango and ice cream, and something that tasted almost exacly like frosted mini wheats.

So much good fellowship during the evening.  Of note was when we played the quiet game while waiting for our table.  I got a complete stranger to dance with me without saying a single word.

It's been a slow start today.  I'm across the street from the apartment having a tea and updating this.  I did some packing (you lucky people...I will be bringing back SO much booty) and will probably have to check two bags home.  Soon I will walk to the Russian market and perhaps I will get a massage.  We will see.  

Love you people.  I've just arranged for Sok to pick me up at nine for my last tuk tuk ride to the airport.  And then it will be all about airports for many, many hours.

No more pictures for the time being.  I have to save my charge on my phone.  Also, it might be until tonight, when I'm at the airport when you hear from me again.  I've had no luck with the WiFi at the apartment.

Love again,

Suzanne and Button Cat

To Market To Market

National Library

Where was I...

Oh right.  Paradise.  Well, all good things must come to an end and we had to end our stint in paradise by taking what felt like a long van ride back to Phnom Penh.  We stopped half way at the same restaurant/rest area place that we had stopped at on the way to Sihanoukville, and, because I really needed to, I used the squat toilet.  PR would be proud.  We got back to Phnom Penh and that is when I discovered my sunburn.  It's not terrible.  I had 50 with me the entire time and took very good care of my face and chest, but I still have this tender souvenir from paradise reminding me that perfect days  do come with tradeoffs.

This morning we ate breakfast at a place called The Shop.  They serve western style food and a lot of it.  I ordered too much:  a mango lassi (like a yogurt shake), yogurt and fruit (love me some yogurt), and an egg/english muffin/ham creation.  It was all quite yummy.

We continued on our journey (via the bikes!) to the Cambodia National Library where the Cambodia Book Fair was being held.  I was excited to see the library as they are few and far between here.  I got to meet Kolap Mao, one of two MLS holding librarians in all of Cambodia.  We talking briefly about librarian training.  The concept of training youth librarians specifically is not really done here as they don't have public libraries like we do and therefore don't have children's libraries at all like we do.  She mentioned that some schools will have seperate libraries for kids and I told her about the one we saw in Siem Reap.  She did say though that there is a need for more training and then said I should apply for a Fullbright scholorship to come here and teach.  Don't worry.  I'm not (seriously) considering it.

I also got to meet a French woman, Anya, who works for an NGO that researches the importance of play for young children...another concept that needs a lot more focus here.  The number of kids who I saw working and selling things on the streets was astounding.  Many children do go to school, but many cannot and regular preschool is reserved for people who can afford it which is certainly not the majority.  

Sammy attended the book fair and got to interview both of the above mentioned women. The book fair itself was tiny by American standards, but had two "stages" for presentations (RM did a presentation on his NGO's digital library), a vendor area where you could buy books and things (all you kids in my life are getting some Khmer kids lit and very strange you will find it, I am sure) and they also had a play area supported by the NGO I mentioned above.  

Here's a brief aside.  RM and I are sitting in a cafe that has donuts.  He is working on his Cambodia blog (http://cambodianbem.wordpress.com for lot of pictures of my visit) and I'm working on mine.  But!  I wanted to mention the ecclectic music that is played all over Cambodia.  Just now it was that song I used to sing all the time..."put another nickle in...in that nickelodeon..."  Last night on the bus it was "Eternal Flame."  Really.  Anything goes.

After the fair, RM had some things to do so I got to hang out with his supervisor, Pinky.  We had arranged this the day before and it worked out great.  She and I went to Wat Phnom, a large and beautiful temple very close to the National Library.  It had beautiful paintings unlike any that I had seen at the Royal Palace.  I asked Pinky why it was important to have SO many Buddha statues and she said that it meant that more power is looking out for you.  

We took my bike and her moto then to Central Market and did some shopping.

Man.  We did some shopping.

She then helped me return my bicycle and took me on back to the apartment.  Pinky and I had a great time.

Tonight we are going out for a nice dinner AND we are going to visit the rooftop bar again (better forecast for tonight.  No rain.)

Then tomorrow I'm going to see the Russia market, get a massage, pack, and head on back to you folks who love and miss me so.

How do I know that you miss me?

Because I miss you!

Absolutely Perfect Day

Paradise

Today we took a boat trip to three islands with Romny Travel and Tour Services:  Koh Chrolosh, Koh Russei, and Koh Tres.  The first island we just jumped off the boat and snorkeled.  I saw schools of fish, black and white striped fish and rocks and some coral under the ocean.  Nothing was terribly colorful, but it was wonderful all the same.

Have I told you that the weather has been perfect in Sihanoukville?

I jumped off the very top of the boat and did lots of swimming at the first island.

At the second island (not sure which one above, but it is also known as Bamboo Island) we had margaritas with cane sugar (lost count of how many), cokes in bottles, lunch, and watched volleyball being played in a beautiful pool of water.  I built a sand castle.  We walked across the island along a jungle path and swam on the very hardly inhabited other side of the island.  

The only thing on this island was a bar, beach chairs, some bungalows that you can rent for 3 bucks a night and chickens.  That's it.  Also paradise.  Did I mention paradise?

We spent about three hours on the second island.

I gave all our stuff to RM and instead of taking the little boat to the big boat, I swam out to it.  It was delightful.  I beat the little boat there.   

On the third island, we did some more snorkeling and I dove off the side of the boat maybe 20 times.  So much sun and swimming and diving.  One of the guides caught a fish off the side of the boat and they cooked it over hot coals right on the boat and we all had a bite.  There was also squid.  I actually just had a bite of the squid and not the fish.  

We were right on schedule all day and now we are back at the hotel having some mixed shakes and waiting for Mekong Bus Express to take us back to Phnom Pehn.  

Tomorrow is the Book Festival.  It will be my last full day in Cambodia.

Today?  Paradise.

Heading to the Islands

We are going on a boat! We are going snorkeling, which I have never done, so that is thrilling. I believe the main Island is Bamboo Island... I think we will see about three. We are supposed to be back here by 415 and our bus back to Phnom Penh picks us up at 430 so we are REALLY hoping that all works out. Fingers crossed!

Grand Sihanoukville Hotel

More beach delights

Napkins / Quack quack

Napkins here are  very very small and delivered in a receptacle similar to a  kleenex box.

Trash is collected by women who squeeze an item that quacks like a duck. When you hear that, you know the trash lady is close.

Currently drinking at Ernie's Bar where we've had hotdogs hamburgers and fries. Yum.

And now we are at a café having fruit shakes and ice cream and  cheesecake. The leisure is getting ridiculous. RM poured espresso over his ice cream for an electrified delight.

And now we have taken a long magic walk along the beach, by a foot path and over a bridge to see the sunset. I made a sand castle with two little kids and their dog. We swam. The sunset was practically nonexistent because of the clouds. We took a long walk back. Now we are getting ready to go out for Indian food for dinner.

And that's your update from the Bod.

Lazy Life

We took a tuk-tuk to Victory Beach last night to watch the sunset.  We were slightly disappointed because there were so many clouds but it was quite dramatic and we got to see some lightning in the distance so that was nice.  Victory Beach was much more rustic than Serendipity.  It is a lot dirtier too, but it was interesting to see more of the area.  There are some hills and lots of trees, but mostly it's just paradise here (but the waves are too calm...no way to surf or even boogie board here).  We took lots of pictures of the sunset then decided an adventure was needed so we walked back.  It was a nice long walk mostly in the gathering dark with tuk-tuks and motos every 20 seconds asking if we wanted a ride.  Half way home we found a grocery store that RM remembered from last time he was here and guess what they had? If you said GELATO, you would be right.  It was very good and the perfect way to split our walk in two.  We continued on home.  Stopped for pizza and beer and drinks and had a great fun evening living the beach life in Sihanoukville.

This morning after sleeping in (RM had to do some work) I walked into the beach area and had a western breakfast (cheese omelet, toast, and banana chocolate shake).  I then did some shopping and then parked myself on the beach for an hour or so to read.  

Beach life. 

In a few minutes we are going to get coffee.  We might arrange for a boat to take us to an island tomorrow.  Tonight we might go to Wat Leu to watch the sunset.

That's what life is like in Sihanoukville.

Sihanoukville Lights